Sarah Burton firma l'abito da sposa di Kate Middleton
Finalmente svelato uno dei misteri fashion dell'anno: una favola di pizzo e seta firmato
Finalmente svelato uno dei misteri fashion dell'anno: una favola di pizzo e seta firmato
Sarah Burton è la stilista dell’anno. O forse del secolo. Chi lo avrebbe mai immaginato che questa designer, pressoché sconosciuta ai più fino al febbraio 2010, da oggi in poi sarebbe stata ricordata come la stilista simbolo matrimonio-evento che ha paralizzato il mondo intero? Dopo smentite, bugie e depistaggi infatti, solo Kate Middleton, con la sua elegante presenza, ha rivelato il nome più misterioso degli ultimi mesi, quello della sua stilista. Sarah Burton, direttrice creativa di Alexander McQueen, ha confezionato l'abito della principessa, ma fino all'ultimo momento, fino alla comparsa della futura sposa avvenuta poco prima delle 12, si poteva solo azzardare qualche nome sulla scia dei gossip che si sono susseguiti lungo tutte queste settimane di importanti preparativi. Sophie Cranston è stata nei giorni scorsi una delle più nominate: la giovanissima stilista britannica era infatti una delle favorite nel ventaglio di papabili candidate, tra cui figuravano anche Alice Temperley, Bruce Oldfield e ultimamente la stessa Kate, che secondo i tabloid britannici, matita alla mano, avrebbe espresso il desiderio di impegnarsi personalmente nella realizzazione dell'abito.
UN ABITO DA FIABA - Complici le numerose smentite giunte dalla stessa griffe - "sono il Ceo, lo saprei se lo stessimo facendo noi", aveva replicato Jonathan Akeroyd, amministratore delegato di Alexander McQueen qualche settimana fa dopo che la notizia del coinvolgimento della Burton si faceva sempre più insistente - la firma dell'abito è rimasta incerta fino alla mattina delle nozze. Coronato da una Tiara di Cartier, donata dalla Regina stessa – insieme al titolo di Duchessa di Cambridge - alla futura sposa, l'abito di pizzo e seta è una perfetta combinazione di lusso e sobria eleganza con il suo scollo a v e l'ampia gonna chiusa da uno strascico lungo 2.70 metri. Un abito da favola, non solo per la sua squisita fattura, ma anche per quello che rappresenta. Passerà infatti di certo alla storia come manifesto e coronamento di una fiaba che dura da diversi anni – non per niente i tabloid hanno spesso chiamato la MIddleton waity Katy (Kate in attesa) - e che premia l'amore per una volta al posto dei requisiti di discendenza.
SARAH BURTON NUOVA LEGGENDA DELLA MODA - Se fino ad un paio di anni fa nessuno - fatti salvi gli operatori del settore - conosceva Sarah Burton, giovane designer e insostituibile braccio destro di Alexander McQueen di cui era anche amica intima, la morte del geniale stilista, che si è tolto la vita nel febbraio del 2010, ha portato sotto le luci della ribalta il nome della designer. Gli ultimi mesi infatti sono stati di vitale importanza per la designer inglese. Chiamata a raccogliere la pesante eredità fatta di estro ed intuito lasciata da McQueen, la Burton ha dato prova, con le recenti collezioni, di essere l’unica in grado di portare avanti l’identità visionaria del brand costruita dal sognante stilista. Un lavoro che evidentemente le è valso la fiducia della neo moglie di William d’Inghilterra oltre che la consacrazione a designer-leggenda. di Donatella Perrone 29/04/2011
estratto da: http://libero-news.it/news/725866/Sarah_Burton_firma_l_abito_da_sposa_di_Kate_Middleton.html
I SEGRETI FINALMENTE SVELATI Conclusesi le nozze del principe William e di Kate Middleton, una serie di segreti sono finalmente stati svelati. Ma resta quello sulla meta del viaggio di nozze.
- LA STILISTA DEL VESTITO - Alla fine era davvero la favorita degli allibratori, Sarah Burton per Alexander McQueen. La Burton é stata riconosciuta ieri pomeriggio mentre entrava di soppiatto al Goring Hotel, dove Kate ha passato l'ultima notte da single, probabilmente per dare un'ultima sistemata al vestito, da una cronista di moda. C'era però ancora la possibilità che anziché disegnare l'abito da sposa, fosse stata scelta da Kate per uno degli altri vestiti della giornata di oggi, quello per il pranzo, o quello per la cena. Ma invece era proprio lei la prescelta. Kate ha lavorato a stretto contatto con la Burton per creare un abito il cui motivo in pizzo incorpora la rosa, il cardo, il quadrifoglio e il narciso, i simboli delle quattro province del Regno. L'abito color avorio, che ricorda molto quello di Grace Kelly, ha una serie di tratti tipici della maison McQueen, a cominciare dal corpetto strutturato, stretto in vita e con i fianchi imbottiti, come gli abiti vittoriani e chiuso con 58 bottoni di organza. Ed é un capolavoro 'Made in Britain', con pizzi realizzati da un team di sarti della Royal School of Needlework ad Hampton Court Palace.
- IL DIADEMA - In questo gli allibratori invece hanno sbagliato. Il diadema indossato da Kate non era il Giorgio III, bensì il Cartier del 1936, soprannominato "l'aureola".
- LA PETTINATURA - Richard Ward e James Pryce hanno sistemato i capelli di Kate in un "mezzo chignon", che li tirava indietro in cima, ma ne lasciava anche di sciolti dietro. Perfetto con il velo.
- LA PIOGGIA - Alla fine il tanto temuto acquazzone non c'é stato e gli sposi hanno viaggiato sulla carrozza scoperta, la State Landau del 1902 usata anche da Carlo e Diana nelle loro nozze nel 1981.
- IL COLORE DEL CAPPELLO DELLA REGINA - Giallo. La sovrana ha indossato un cappello giallo decorato con rose di seta fatte a mano e foglie color pesca. L'abito, di un giallo acceso con un cappottino dello stesso colore, era decorato con perline che partivano dal collo come raggi di sole. Cappello, abito e cappotto sono stati confezionati dalla stilista Angela Kelly. Sul cappotto la regina portava una spilla di diamanti appartenuta alla madre, il True Lovers Knot.
- LA STILISTA DEL VESTITO - Alla fine era davvero la favorita degli allibratori, Sarah Burton per Alexander McQueen. La Burton é stata riconosciuta ieri pomeriggio mentre entrava di soppiatto al Goring Hotel, dove Kate ha passato l'ultima notte da single, probabilmente per dare un'ultima sistemata al vestito, da una cronista di moda. C'era però ancora la possibilità che anziché disegnare l'abito da sposa, fosse stata scelta da Kate per uno degli altri vestiti della giornata di oggi, quello per il pranzo, o quello per la cena. Ma invece era proprio lei la prescelta. Kate ha lavorato a stretto contatto con la Burton per creare un abito il cui motivo in pizzo incorpora la rosa, il cardo, il quadrifoglio e il narciso, i simboli delle quattro province del Regno. L'abito color avorio, che ricorda molto quello di Grace Kelly, ha una serie di tratti tipici della maison McQueen, a cominciare dal corpetto strutturato, stretto in vita e con i fianchi imbottiti, come gli abiti vittoriani e chiuso con 58 bottoni di organza. Ed é un capolavoro 'Made in Britain', con pizzi realizzati da un team di sarti della Royal School of Needlework ad Hampton Court Palace.
- IL DIADEMA - In questo gli allibratori invece hanno sbagliato. Il diadema indossato da Kate non era il Giorgio III, bensì il Cartier del 1936, soprannominato "l'aureola".
- LA PETTINATURA - Richard Ward e James Pryce hanno sistemato i capelli di Kate in un "mezzo chignon", che li tirava indietro in cima, ma ne lasciava anche di sciolti dietro. Perfetto con il velo.
- LA PIOGGIA - Alla fine il tanto temuto acquazzone non c'é stato e gli sposi hanno viaggiato sulla carrozza scoperta, la State Landau del 1902 usata anche da Carlo e Diana nelle loro nozze nel 1981.
- IL COLORE DEL CAPPELLO DELLA REGINA - Giallo. La sovrana ha indossato un cappello giallo decorato con rose di seta fatte a mano e foglie color pesca. L'abito, di un giallo acceso con un cappottino dello stesso colore, era decorato con perline che partivano dal collo come raggi di sole. Cappello, abito e cappotto sono stati confezionati dalla stilista Angela Kelly. Sul cappotto la regina portava una spilla di diamanti appartenuta alla madre, il True Lovers Knot.
Sarah Burton
29 April 2011
SARAH BURTON is the creative director of Alexander McQueen. She took over the reins of the famous British label in May 2010, following Alexander McQueen's death in February the same year.
Sarah is one of five children and was raised in Manchester. One of her brothers is a professional oboe player and one of her sisters is an opera singer.
She attended Manchester Polytechnic to complete a foundation course, before moving to London to study Print Fashion at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. She graduated in 1997. "At one point I was going to study Fine Art at Ruskin College in Oxford, but I decided I wanted to pursue my interest in fashion," she said in the February 2010 issue of Vogue.
While at Central Saint Martins her tutor Simon Ungless, a friend of Lee McQueen's, suggested Burton be interviewed for a year's placement at Alexander McQueen. "At the time, McQueen was based in a tiny studio in Hoxton Square. At the interview I remember Lee asking me 'Do you believe in UFOs?' And Trino Verkade, Lee's commercial right-hand, asking if I could do denim production. I did not have a clue!" she said.
Burton joined McQueen in 1996 as an intern, and subsequently returned after her graduation. She was appointed head of womenswear in 2000 and acted as McQueen's aide up until his death in February 2010.
Jonathan Akeroyd, president and ceo of Alexander McQueen, said at the time of Burton's appointment as creative director in May 2010: "We are delighted that Sarah has agreed to take on the role of creative director. Having worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years, she has a deep understanding of his vision, which will allow the company to stay true to its core values." Robert Polet, president and ceo of Gucci Group added: "Sarah has a real talent, a close understanding of the brand, and the vision necessary to take it forward. We will be giving full support to Sarah and the team in the coming years."
Burton has admitted that taking over from McQueen was, at first, an intimidating prospect. "I thought: 'How would I ever begin to begin?' Lee's mind was so different to anyone else's. I knew there was no way I could pretend to be him; but I had to ask myself, what did Lee work for? For all this just to close down? I thought about what I wanted. What was best for me. Like many women my age, I do want children, but I came to think that that's not a reason not to take up a challenge. In the end I just decided to get on with it: do my best."
The designer has no plans to replicate McQueen's signature theatrical shows. "That was very much Lee's territory - the spectacular show," she told WWD in September 2010. "In that way, I can't try and pretend to be Lee."
In September 2010, she presented her first womenswear collection (see it here) in Paris. It paid homage to McQueen's dramatic aesthetic but added her own more feminine take. "People ask: what's Sarah about? But I've worked here for so long, there's been a big part of me in those collections all along the way," she said. "I'm not going to wipe the slate clean. That would be wiping me away. There will always be those McQueen elements, but at the same time, you can never stay still and you have to stay true to yourself. That's what Lee drummed in to me: you have to be able to stand behind your work."
She credits McQueen for teaching her all she knows about design. "Everything I know I learnt here. If you didn't know how to do something, Lee made you take on the challenge and would teach you how, or leave you to figure out how to do it yourself. He once handed over a bias-cut houndstooth dress and said, 'Now, put a zip in it,' then left for the weekend!"
Daphne Guinness, a long-term friend of Alexander McQueen, has offered her approval on Burton's takeover. "Sarah's brilliant - I loved her last collection," Guinness told us in January 2011. "She worked with Lee for so long so she knows what to do. She's not Lee but I think he'd be happy with her doing it. She learnt from him."
Burton lives in St Johns Wood with her photographer husband, David Burton.
In April 2011, after months of rumour and speculation, Sarah Burton was revealed as the designer of the wedding dress for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge. The dress was an ivory silk and lace, long-sleeved, V-necked gown bearing a two-metre train - and was accessorised with a veil made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle trimmed with hand-embroidered flowers. Burton said: "It has been the experience of a lifetime to work with Catherine Middleton to create her wedding dress, and I have enjoyed every moment of it. It was such an incredible honour to be asked, and I am so proud of what we and the Alexander McQueen team have created. I am delighted that the dress represents the best of British craftsmanship. Alexander McQueen's designs are all about bringing contrasts together to create startling and beautiful clothes and I hope that by marrying traditional fabrics and lacework, with a modern structure and design we have created a beautiful dress for Catherine on her wedding day". See the wedding dress here.
29 April 2011
SARAH BURTON is the creative director of Alexander McQueen. She took over the reins of the famous British label in May 2010, following Alexander McQueen's death in February the same year.
Sarah is one of five children and was raised in Manchester. One of her brothers is a professional oboe player and one of her sisters is an opera singer.
She attended Manchester Polytechnic to complete a foundation course, before moving to London to study Print Fashion at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. She graduated in 1997. "At one point I was going to study Fine Art at Ruskin College in Oxford, but I decided I wanted to pursue my interest in fashion," she said in the February 2010 issue of Vogue.
While at Central Saint Martins her tutor Simon Ungless, a friend of Lee McQueen's, suggested Burton be interviewed for a year's placement at Alexander McQueen. "At the time, McQueen was based in a tiny studio in Hoxton Square. At the interview I remember Lee asking me 'Do you believe in UFOs?' And Trino Verkade, Lee's commercial right-hand, asking if I could do denim production. I did not have a clue!" she said.
Burton joined McQueen in 1996 as an intern, and subsequently returned after her graduation. She was appointed head of womenswear in 2000 and acted as McQueen's aide up until his death in February 2010.
Jonathan Akeroyd, president and ceo of Alexander McQueen, said at the time of Burton's appointment as creative director in May 2010: "We are delighted that Sarah has agreed to take on the role of creative director. Having worked alongside Lee McQueen for more than 14 years, she has a deep understanding of his vision, which will allow the company to stay true to its core values." Robert Polet, president and ceo of Gucci Group added: "Sarah has a real talent, a close understanding of the brand, and the vision necessary to take it forward. We will be giving full support to Sarah and the team in the coming years."
Burton has admitted that taking over from McQueen was, at first, an intimidating prospect. "I thought: 'How would I ever begin to begin?' Lee's mind was so different to anyone else's. I knew there was no way I could pretend to be him; but I had to ask myself, what did Lee work for? For all this just to close down? I thought about what I wanted. What was best for me. Like many women my age, I do want children, but I came to think that that's not a reason not to take up a challenge. In the end I just decided to get on with it: do my best."
The designer has no plans to replicate McQueen's signature theatrical shows. "That was very much Lee's territory - the spectacular show," she told WWD in September 2010. "In that way, I can't try and pretend to be Lee."
In September 2010, she presented her first womenswear collection (see it here) in Paris. It paid homage to McQueen's dramatic aesthetic but added her own more feminine take. "People ask: what's Sarah about? But I've worked here for so long, there's been a big part of me in those collections all along the way," she said. "I'm not going to wipe the slate clean. That would be wiping me away. There will always be those McQueen elements, but at the same time, you can never stay still and you have to stay true to yourself. That's what Lee drummed in to me: you have to be able to stand behind your work."
She credits McQueen for teaching her all she knows about design. "Everything I know I learnt here. If you didn't know how to do something, Lee made you take on the challenge and would teach you how, or leave you to figure out how to do it yourself. He once handed over a bias-cut houndstooth dress and said, 'Now, put a zip in it,' then left for the weekend!"
Daphne Guinness, a long-term friend of Alexander McQueen, has offered her approval on Burton's takeover. "Sarah's brilliant - I loved her last collection," Guinness told us in January 2011. "She worked with Lee for so long so she knows what to do. She's not Lee but I think he'd be happy with her doing it. She learnt from him."
Burton lives in St Johns Wood with her photographer husband, David Burton.
In April 2011, after months of rumour and speculation, Sarah Burton was revealed as the designer of the wedding dress for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge. The dress was an ivory silk and lace, long-sleeved, V-necked gown bearing a two-metre train - and was accessorised with a veil made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle trimmed with hand-embroidered flowers. Burton said: "It has been the experience of a lifetime to work with Catherine Middleton to create her wedding dress, and I have enjoyed every moment of it. It was such an incredible honour to be asked, and I am so proud of what we and the Alexander McQueen team have created. I am delighted that the dress represents the best of British craftsmanship. Alexander McQueen's designs are all about bringing contrasts together to create startling and beautiful clothes and I hope that by marrying traditional fabrics and lacework, with a modern structure and design we have created a beautiful dress for Catherine on her wedding day". See the wedding dress here.
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